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Caring For Asparagus Step by Step in the UK

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Caring for an asparagus bed and maintaining it in a productive state is not particularly time-consuming and is something that can easily be achieved by amateur gardeners. The key areas to consider for asparagus care are:

WEEDING

FEEDING

MULCHING

HARVESTING (takes you to another page)

SUPPORTING STEMS

PREPARING FOR WINTER

Either read through this article in its entirety or click on any of the subjects above to skip to the relevant section.

WEEDING AN ASPARAGUS BED

This is the most crucial task to carry out if your asparagus bed is to be a success. Firstly, weeds are competition for asparagus and they don't respond well to competition.

The second point to understand about asparagus is that their roots are not only widespread but, more relevant, they are shallow. This rules out any digging of an asparagus bed with a spade, it will inevitably cut up the roots and permanently and significantly reduce the yield of asparagus spears

Personally, whenever I visit my allotment, I give the asparagus bed a two minute look over to remove any weeds. When weeds are young they are easy to pull out by hand. If needed, a trowel can be used but only to a shallow depth. Frequent removal of weeds prevents them from ever becoming a problem.

See also the section below concerning mulching, mulch deters weeds and organic mulch will pay huge dividends in many ways.

WHEN AND HOW TO FEED AND WATER ASPARAGUS PLANTS

Asparagus are not greedy plants as far as feeding is concerned. A handful of blood, fish and bone fertiliser per square metre, gently worked into the surface of the soil surface in March will satisfy their needs, especially if you apply an organic mulch each year.

Asparagus are surprisingly tolerant of dry weather although they will appreciate being watered if the weather is abnormally dry during the summer months. What they do benefit from however, is regular (once a month) watering during their first summer. During their first year the root system is not yet fully developed and absorbing sufficient moisture may be a problem.

MULCHING AN ASPARAGUS BED

Mulch is a gardeners best friend especially organic mulch (garden compost, well rotted manure, wood chip, grass clippings etc.). It's especially useful for a crop like asparagus for the following reasons:

• Asparagus hates weed competition but removing weeds from an asparagus be can be difficult because asparagus roots are shallow. Mulch deters weeds making the weeding process less tiresome.
   
• Asparagus likes a moist soil. Mulch traps moisture in the soil.
   
• Asparagus prefers a low level of nutrients supplied constantly. Mulch, as it rots down on the soil surface, provides exactly that.

SUPPORTING ASPARAGUS STEMS

After you stop harvesting asparagus spears, the remaining spears and any others which grow later will turn into long stems with feathery green foliage at the top. These stems and their feathery foliage are absolutely essential to the health and productivity of the crowns below ground and how well it will perform the next year.

The feathery foliage acts exactly like leaves in many other plants. It absorbs sunlight and transforms it into chemical energy by a process known as photosynthesis. The feathery foliage is essential to the life cycle of asparagus because by absorbing sunlight it "feeds" the asparagus crown below enabling it produce more spears the next year.

The long stems topped by the expansive foliage has a disadvantage however in garden and allotment settings. In late summer and into early autumn stronger winds cause the structure to rock back and forth.

This constant movement causes stress to the roots (crown) of the plant, slowly breaking its connection with the surrounding soil. Without connection between the crown and the soil the plant looses its ability to absorb water and nutrients. In stronger winds the stems can break, totally stopping the plants ability to absorb energy.

Asparagus stems will start to need support around late July time. On my asparagus bed (I only have room for 12 plants) I place bamboo canes (90cm high) which either support individual stems or around groups of stems so that I can tie twine around them. The first time I tie the twine onto or around the stems and bamboo canes at a  height of around 45cm.

Depending on the height the stems grow to, I may well tie the stems and canes together again at 60cm. Different years and weather conditions will decide this.

PREPARING FOR WINTER

As autumn progresses the stems will start to turn yellow and eventually brown. At this stage cut the stems down. The exact level to cut the stems down to is often discussed in gardening forums and amongst gardeners. I suspect it doesn't really matter - cut them to ground level, 5cm or so above ground level or even higher.

Personally, I cut the stems down to about 5cm / 2in above ground level. The reason is that the cut stems will remain clearly visible until the next spring. They will indicate where the individual plants are which is very useful if I need to weed the area during the autumn / winter.

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